Dunsmoor
Chef Brian Dunsmoor isn’t done with Southern food — far from it. At his new corner restaurant at 3501 Eagle Rock Boulevard, housed inside a 1929 Spanish Revival building that sat empty for years, that heritage can be seen and felt thanks in part to a glowing wood-fired hearth, where rainbow trout will be seared off as other proteins smoke away slowly from above.
A separate, small, open raw bar is where Brian Dunsmoor will spend most of his time (chef de cuisine Manuel Mendoza and staff will heavily man the fire and small back kitchen), popping oysters and thickly slicing albacore onto a decorative plate. The larder, as it were, is where pork butt rillettes and chopped duck liver and pickled vegetables will get their due, showcased alongside Bub & Grandma’s breads and spreads made in-house. In all, the restaurant’s menu, with its aged filigree detailing and nods to regions like the Carolinas, the low country, and the Pacific, is meant to take diners across time and place — a journey made for a wandering and thoughtful chef like Dunsmoor, plunked right down in Glassell Park.